My first batch and everything looks good!! I Think!

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Post by Kijek » Mon Mar 05, 2018 02:25

Oh no thank you Cajun, your more help to me then I have been to you, I hope to change that and make it even. :cool:

Ok did some checking on those meters you mentioned, and I love that Milwaukee PH meter.
Is this the one, if so, I'm going to buy it.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MW101- ... e+ph+meter

Unless anyone out there thinks I shouldn't for some reason?
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 03:26

http://www.wedlinydomowe.pl/en/viewtopic.php?t=7737

Check out this thread. I think Bob uses that one. He may have the 102 model and you might like into getting the meat prove as well although it may not be necessary if you aren't poking into your solid salamis

It's a very informative thread.


Be sure to get the calibration liquids as well as the storage liquids.


Eric
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Post by Kijek » Mon Mar 05, 2018 04:06

Thank you that helps out a lot.
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 13:19

cajuneric wrote:Now that my fan is disconnected from the unit what is the real benefit of using a Johnson control? My fridge will go from 2c-25c. Should I unplug the Johnson control and just use the fridge normal set to 11c? (I can use the temp control on a different chamber I am building)
You probably don't need the controller if the refrigerators controls are in that temp range. Most of the refrigerators and freezers don't go that high so need a controler. There is no reason the hold the temp tighter that +- 2-3°, most controllers have those settings. If the compressor shuts on and off too often they will burn out, they are designed to rest between cycles. Your condensation pan will fill up before it evaporates due to the short run time on the compressor not heating it up enough. You can either empty it like you are doing, or you can lengthen the drain tube to drain in a larger or more accessible container.

Sound like your air flow problem has been solved. The coils would never have iced over as the down time with the higher than normal fridge temps lets them thaw..... thats why your condensation container is full


Slight dry rim but normal, the color will even out as they dry. Just let them dry further until the texture you prefer. The color and flavor will also benefit from further drying, 40mm hog casings usually take 2-4 weeks
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 13:39

Cool. That's very encouraging. I'm guessing the rest of my meats in the chamber are good too...

So let me make sure I understand. You say that the control is not necessary (because my fridge can go to the higher temps) but is recommended so as to let the compressor rest between cycles?

I guess a better way to ask the same question is this. If it were you what would you do?
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 13:47

cajuneric wrote:I guess a better way to ask the same question is this. If it were you what would you do?
I would try it with just the refrigerator settings.

Your quick with the delete button! but yes we were the first to point out that vac sealing is not only a good way to store finished salami but also the moisture equalises and the flavor continues to improve.
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 13:58

cajuneric wrote: You say that the control is not necessary (because my fridge can go to the higher temps) but is recommended so as to let the compressor rest between cycles?
Not 100% on this but I believe that they have a built in delay so that they can't turn back on too quickly. Cutting the power to the unit (controller) probably resets it.

It's also the reason you should have a 2-3° lag with the controllers and not set them to have 0 +-

There's simply no reason to have that tight of a tolerance, while the air temp is rapid to change the chubs are not.
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 13:59

I realized that you had already answered my question about color and dry rim so I deleted it... Very Good. I think that I'll try that and see how it goes.

When vacuum sealing the salami's or whole muscles I have 3 questions

Do I scrape off the white mold before vacuum sealing?

Should I remove the synthetic casing?

If my salami is too big for the vac bag can I cut it in half then vacuum seal it or does it have to remain whole?


Getting more confident every day and realizing just how little I actually know about anything!! Thank you for your knowledge
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 14:08

cajuneric wrote:When vacuum sealing the salami's or whole muscles I have 3 questions

Do I scrape off the white mold before vacuum sealing?
You can do that or just remove the casings. I remove the casings.

Should I remove the synthetic casing?
I remove both synthetic and natural.

If my salami is too big for the vac bag can I cut it in half then vacuum seal it or does it have to remain whole?

Cut them to whatever size you like , no problems.
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 14:28

Very Good!! Looks like I will update in a week or 2. I'll make changes and monitor closely.

What's frustrating for me right now is that my 3 hygrometers all read something very different than my hygrostat. I'm using an inkbird unit but in the next few days my Auber unit will arrive and I think that it is more precise. Do you have any experience with the Auber HD-220W. I like the wireless capability.

Speaking of this, how do you calibrate these units? I watched a video that demonstrated a salt and water technique. Is there a better way or do I need to stick the sensor in a bag and tape it all shut for 24 hours?
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 15:07

cajuneric wrote: What's frustrating for me right now is that my 3 hygrometers all read something very different than my hygrostat. I'm using an inkbird unit but in the next few days my Auber unit will arrive and I think that it is more precise. Do you have any experience with the Auber HD-220W. I like the wireless capability.

Speaking of this, how do you calibrate these units? I watched a video that demonstrated a salt and water technique. Is there a better way or do I need to stick the sensor in a bag and tape it all shut for 24 hours?
You can buy calibration pacs....but the salt method works fine.
I have 3 also and its difficult to get them all in sync. I calibrate my digital and analog using the salt method as they have no wires and fit into a sealed container, when those are adjusted and agree I place then in chamber and set the Auber controller to them. Easier than running a sensor wire through a lid and sealing it to calibrate.

Auber recommends the salt method. I have the dual controller without the WiFi. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=377

P.S. Just turned on my fermenting chamber and that controller has a setting for a compressor delay...1-10 minutes.
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 15:29

Nice,

I just contacted Auber and they sent me a PDF explaining their salt method... Seems easy enough.

I looked at my Johnson control and it has a delay as well. It seems that I have set it for 4 minutes.. Fridges naturally have that delay, right?

If I plug my fridge in and use it set to 11c it's not designed to burn the compressor up. Do fridges have a built in delay?
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Post by Bob K » Mon Mar 05, 2018 15:42

Not 100% on this but I believe that they have a built in delay so that they can't turn back on too quickly. Cutting the power to the unit (controller) probably resets it.
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Post by cajuneric » Mon Mar 05, 2018 15:47

Now I understand. I didn't get it at first. Sorry
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Post by redzed » Mon Mar 05, 2018 17:23

IMHO if the fridge can be operated with the built in controller, it would be much more preferable. That way you have power running to it all the time to operate all the other components that continue to work while the compressor is not working.
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