Pale, Soft, and Exudative

[story28]

PSE (pale, soft, exudative) meat is said to have a slightly lower ph compared to its normal counterpart. It is also said to have poorer water binding capabilities. These are both conditions that might be of benefit for a person looking to make dry aged products, but how does PSE meat come to be?

Being that the exudate is part of the protein matrix and the meat itself, would someone still add that back to the sausage mix even though it is destined for dry aging? And if so, why?

And most importantly, is this the best type of meat (within that criteria) to use for a dry aged sausage application?

[Chuckwagon]

Jason, you are correct. PSE pork has a lower pH along with poorer water binding potential and ability. "Pale, soft, exudative" meat is usually caused by a departure from that which is normal or desirable in the biochemistry and morphology of individual muscles. During the past four decades, pigs have been increasingly subjected to intense genetic selection for rapid lean muscle growth. I watched the quality decline year after year, although "modern science" claims there is a better product today. Certainly, there is a much leaner product today. As a result, today`s hogs are much smaller than those raised when I was just a boy. Frequently associated with economic importance rather than biophysical significance, the results of stress syndromes (e.g. porcine stress syndrome) become manifest as PSE muscle in postmortem condition. Stressful preslaughter handling conditions have been linked to structural irregularities including decreased capillary density. The increase of PSE muscle is found mainly at the onset of rigor mortis in "fast-twitch", anaerobic muscles with low energy potential. You are correct in assuming that poor water-binding and lower pH are both beneficial in making dry-cured products. Post mortem glycolysis (raising acidity) may lower the pH in pork as much as 5.4 in only eight hours.

You asked,

would someone still add that back to the sausage mix even though it is destined for dry aging? And if so, why?

Yes, add it back to the primary bind. The amount of liquid exudate added at this point is negligible and quickly removed as diffusion and evaporation occur in the curing chamber. Why add the salty exudate back to the matrix? Two reasons. Flavor and binding properties. By the way, do you realize that flavor increases as an animal grows older? Remember that comminuted meat has more surface area. The proteins extracted form a bond between the protein matrix and all meat surfaces.
You also asked,

And most importantly, is this the best type of meat (within that criteria) to use for a dry aged sausage application?

This will always be a matter of opinion although most people prefer not to use PSE for sausage making. I think not. Quite often, misled people use it in sausage because it is less expensive. However, these are usually the folks who believe that sausage should only contain left-over trimmings and meat not fit for other uses. Ol` Rytek used to say, "if you want junky sausage, use junky meat." I've found that lots of folks just don`t "get it"!

Best Wishes,
Chuckwagon

[story28]

Now that makes some serious sense CW. Some of the literature isn't very clear about the result being an overall higher quality product, it just mentions the water-binding and ph properties. Also, if PSE pork is achieved by having a stressed animal, the sausage maker would risk all of that bacteria that travels from their guts to into their muscle from those conditions.

What about on the flipside then with the DFD (dark, firm, and dry) meat? It is said to have higher ph and better water binding abilities. This is in my opinion, is the best meat available, at least from a chef's standpoint. Does using this meat slow down diffusion or make it a bit more challenging to safely drop the ph in a dry sausage application?

[Chuckwagon]

In my opinion, DFD is the only choice in sausage making for small operations and hobbyists. We constantly strive for the best product we are able to possibly achieve by using the latest technology and the best possible materials in order to craft sausage that is a cut above others. It makes no sense to use an inferior cut or type of meat. What was that old saying about using a sow's ear to make a silk purse? Hmmm.

I've found that the differences in the pH drop and water-holding properties in PSE as compared to those of DFD are so insignificant that it is not much of a concern when compared to the benefits of using top grade pork, especially with today's wonderful starter cultures and fermenting savvy. I've found that with a little know-how and experience, diffusion will almost take care of itself. It's just like playing the piano - practice makes the difference. That's where we home sausage-making enthusiasts are mostly equal - we are able to individually choose how much practice we apply to our craft! Now, if I could just carry a tune on that ol' danged banjo!

Best Wishes,
Chuckwagon

[story28]

Well it's good to hear that those differences in aw and pH are nominal enough not to obsess over. And here I was thinking that I had to learn how to select pigs and meat for .1 or .2 differences in measurement! Now I just need to find a new obscure thing to obsess over.